I'm here!

I arrived in Delhi and stayed at a hotel near the train station, intending to catch a train to Vrindavan the next day. In the morning I hired a rickshaw to take me and my suitcase there, and the kid driving it told me to ask the policeman to help me buy a ticket. I walked in the direction he pointed, and the man asked me where I was going. I told him, and he said to come with him. He brought me to a nearby office with a sign that said “international tourist bureau”, where he did some computer searches and told me that unfortunately all the trains to Vrindavan were booked for three days. He said I could hire a taxi. I asked how much. He made some calls, and said it would be $149 USD. I said no way, that’s way out of my price range. He made some more calls and offers, which I rejected, eventually finding that 3300 rupees (about $79) was the best price that could be found for a non-air conditioned car. I said that was still too expensive and I might just stay in Delhi for three days. I said I wanted to call my contact, Mr. Poddar, the head of the NGO I’m working with, and get his advice. I gave him the number and he dialed, and handed me the phone. Mr. Poddar suggested I take the cab, so I took the one for 3300.

It was about a two hour drive. When I arrived, I met Mr. Poddar, and he asked how I got to Vrindavan from Delhi. Turns out we had never spoken – the guy on the phone was a fake! He said one could get air conditioned taxis, round trip from Delhi, for less than $50. This tourist trap was so convincing and clever that I don’t even feel bad for having fallen into it. But really, I think there isn't any way to avoid being cheated at first. You don't know what the standard prices are for things, so it's easy for people to take advantage of you.

Vrindavan is great – it’s a pilgrimage town. It’s part of an area called Braj, which is where Krishna spent his childhood, according to Hindu mythology. It’s really beautiful – lots of temples, old architecture, the Yamuna river. I am staying in an ashram, which from what I can gather is a religious/community center. Foreign research scholars have stayed here, including my main contact, Robyn, an Australian photographer. She is away now but will be back on the tenth. The ashram is really nice. Everyone has been very accommodating and helpful. They provide me with all my meals.

I have some of my bearings now, but I have a long way to go before I feel in control. I feel like a child, learning basic things and dependent on my hosts. I am getting used to eating with only my right hand while sitting on the floor. I'm at the baby talk stage of the language. The differences between American English and Indian English are not always intuitive - I have to learn their version of it. My goal for today is to go to the market by myself and purchase toilet paper.

Next time I’ll write about the NGO I’ll be working with, called Friends of Vrindavan. After learning more about what they do here, I am really excited to be working with them. Until then…..



This is the ashram.


Looking across the Yamuna River from the roof of one of the ashram buildings.






Panoramic view of Vrindavan


Inside the ashram - main performance hall / common space. I like this ladder on wheels.